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It was 9,30pm on Friday night when plans changed and the in-laws decided to dine out. Early for a Spanish family.

When asked where he wanted to go, the brother-in-law replied firmly “anywhere with good meat”. Given these instructions, I could hardly fail to recommend the Cortijo Albari in Vera.

Given the time, I thought it prudent to call ahead and warn Carlos of our imminent arrival.

“We’re full” was the abrupt reply to my call. “Not a chair free in the place”.

“Come on” I wheedled, “it’s David Jackson here, and it’s a special occasion”.

The waiter I was talking to didn’t have a clue who I was, but the special occasion bit convinced them. No, I jest. We go there a lot.

“It’ll have to be indoors” he warned me.

When we piled up and parked, we realised the anonymous voice on the phone wasn’t joking. The place was packed, inside and out.

Frankly, eating indoors at the Cortijo Albari is not a hardship, as long as you avoid the room where they cook the meat (except in the winter, best seat in the place, close by to the roaring fire). Large, climate controlled and interesting things on the wall to look at. We piled in.

Now, I think that the service that night was an example of how to run a service that is overbooked with insufficient staff. Yes, the service was slow, but we warned in advance about the delay, nibbles were provided, and care was taken to bring out everything at once, instead of higgly piggly. Unlike the usual technique most place employ, which is forgetting which table is on which course and sending out plates bit by bit. With good conversation, and even better wine, who cares about a measly delay in getting the food out?

The Albari terrace, although pleasant and surrounded by pine trees, does have one drawback – mosquitoes. However, they don’t seem too bad this year. We were indoors, so we weren’t worried, but we’ve had a couple of experiences there when we thought we were in the middle of WWII dogfight.

Carlos and Carmen concentrate their efforts on one particular subsection of cuisine : meat. It’s not Argentine, it’s Spanish but it’s the best you can get and it’s better than almost any Argentine freeze packed stuff. The chuleton de buey, which is basically a Spanish Chateaubriand, is, despite being buey, melt in the mouth. Carefully carved and served at the table by Carlos himself, this is not a meal – it’s an experience.

Around the meat, you have a selection of typically northern Spanish starters, and a delicious foie which comes gratinated and on biscuits, to be piled high and then devoured. This particular duck did not, shall we say, die in vain. Salads, anchovies, meats and other dishes adorn the starters menu. The best plan is to order several dishes to share, then a main course.

Carlos is a pretty decent sommelier, and has a damn good wine cellar there.

Half way through the meal, just before the buey was carved, Carlos suggested that we move outside as a table had just become free, in order to enjoy the show.

“The what?” I asked, baffled. But it turned out he had a magician on.

The magician, by the way, wasn’t the reason the place was busy. This was a mere incident happening in the background. But we went outside anyway.

The magician was rather rubbish, but it was more of a comedy act than a magic show, and we enjoyed ourselves immensely. In fact, it was close to 3am before the show ended and we left.

Carlos later explained to me that he’s putting on a different show every Friday throughout the summer. Next Friday is a flamenco act.

So, to summary. The best meat restaurant in Almería, by a long shot. Down a long windy road between Vera and Garrucha. Fairly expensive, budget (with wine) 50€ p,p, plus a taxi if you’re going far as the cops sit at either end of that road waiting for you. Worth every penny. Leave vegetarians at home with a carrot, they wouldn’t like it.

Cortijo Albari
Vera – Garrucha old road. 950391706 / 687953646
Map on google maps

Having been introduced to this place by Ric Polansky, who has an exhibition of bullfighting photos on the wall, I though it could be fun to pop there one evening with the parents and the gf. Quite the happy family.

Casa Santiago has a large outside terrace, taking up most of the public pavement, where in fine Spanish style you can occupy the public road, lounging around with a g&t watching with interest as mothers with prams and the elderly have to step out into the road, braving the traffic, to get around your table. It being evening, we did not avail ourselves of this offer and sat inside in the tasteful wooden dining room.

The place is divided into two, a pleasant and cosy bar and the main room. Lots of pine, a nice light decoration that makes you feel at home.  Tapas are available in the main bar for those who wish to wash their beer down with something.

No menus are used. Instead, you are told what the kitchen has on today, in a time honoured fashion. The menu is small but traditional and well cooked.

We had a selection of starters. We steered away from the “fashionable” salads, and stuck with a simple ensalada mixta. Home cured anchovies and oven cooked octopus were two other starters. All were delicious, the anchovies prepared delicately in olive oil to offset the salt.

Mains were a solomillo de buey, entrecot de ternera, rape (a la plancha) and rape (in almond sauce).

The meats were delicious. Oven cooked, they were tasty, tender and melt in the mouth delicious.

The fish tasted frozen and was a disappointment, especially compared to the meats and starters.

A couple of bottles of Rioja, a Abadia Rotuerta washed it all down. Some cheese and coffee to finish.

The bill? A hefty €166,60 for the four of us. The anchovies were almost €2 – each. Steaks were a decent price (€13,50 and €14,50) but €23 for the wine was a bit steep. Since you don’t get a menu, the price comes as a shock.

Good fun, but a bit expensive. Stay away from the fish.

Restaurante Bar Casa Santiago
Garrucha, C/ Mayor 36.
Coming into Garrucha from Las Bouganvillas, on right just past Banco Andalucia (car park in front).
See it on Google maps

In my youth, Bar Juventud was the “other bar”. As people who lived on the “Crespo” side of the street, going into Juventud was akin to a Madrid supporter sneaking into a Barça pub. Only to be attempted wearing a large hat when noone was around. Which was a pity as it always had better tapas.

Then we grew up and rarely visited Los Gallardos, as we lived out in the sticks and once we were given a moped LG was “too rural” for our newly discovered expensive tastes. But Juventud still had the best tapas in the Levante. And it’s not just me – the director of the RTV-A (admittedly from Los Gallardos) thought much the same. (He also said the same about the old La Rueda – the perils of being related to the families of two different bars, no doubt).

Fastforward twenty years to 2009, when an Uruguayan named Eduardo and his wife took the place over. Eduardo started to run summer BBQ’s, once a week. Not for long, but it became famous and full. After all, the man is a master of the Parriallada. Despite his apparant OCD which leads him to wash his hands often (a good sign in both chefs and surgeons).

Eduardo has stopped the outdoor Parrialladas for the winter – despite the small door and narrow space for clients, Jueventud boasts a large exterior patio – but upon a smile, a wink and a 24 hour reservation will do one. As we discovered tonight.

The menu was simple. An ensalada de huerta, lots of tomatos. Couple of bottles of wine that had -how to put it?- been too close to the BBQ to be considered vintage but were still quaffable. Pan, with lots of ajo. Some homemade chimicurri. The best jacket potato I’ve had all year – crisp yet soft and tasty. And either secreto iberico or ternera – entrecote. You can have it well done, or very well done.Coffee, Orujo and a couple of Mr J’s “homemade” cigars for pudding. Ironically the cigars also seem to be from Uruguay.

The BBQ consists of a bonfire of ancient olive wood, coals from which are heaped over, under, and alongside, the meat. So rare doesn’t appear to be an option.

Flippin delicious. If you don’t like food like this, ‘eff off back to McDonalds. The daily tapas are good, too.

La Estancia used to be a regular Argentinian restaurant in Turre. then it developed into a rather mediocre restaurant. Then it sank into a terrible Argentinian restaurant. Then it closed, just before last Christmas.

While at the beginning it was good, by the time it closed its passing was not lamented.

ANYWAY – after some Argentinian from Guadix nicked the rent from under me, it all went quiet. Until recently.

It reopened under the direction of Juan Pablo and his son, the silent Alejandro. With appropriate missus in the kitchen, I am assured. Decor, which has always been lovely, remains much the same. The smoking room has been split off and is to open later as a gelateria.

The menu is simple and good. Very decent meat (from Huija), cooked either plancha or on the barbie. You can get a decent Cuadril for €11, or a solomillo for €14. All includes salad or chips. A Parrillada for 2 costs €25. Chicken and fish are also on the menu. Food is also available to take away, and during the day rolls and snacks are available for them what ain’t hungry.

No Gordon’s. Let’s see how long it takes them to get some in! Pleasent wine list, too.

Frankly, it’s recommended and I’m glad to see a decent “eat out” restaurant in Turre open again.

La Estancia argentine Grill
Off the crossroads towards the old Turre bridge, in front of the old Rodrigo restaurant.
654 562 449